Cusco & Aguas Calientes, Peru

After multiple attempts due to the pandemic, my dream of visiting Machu Picchu finally became a reality. As a kid watching The Wild Thornberrys, seeing Machu Picchu had always been a top bucket-list item. And after three failed attempts, my fourth try was the charm.

We flew into Cusco from Arequipa on the morning of September 5th, 2024. The one-hour flight definitely beat the 13-hour bus alternative! We stayed at the Atiq Boutique Hotel, which cost $130 USD per night. The hotel itself was decent, but the main reason for booking was its convenience: they allowed us to store our luggage early and it was only a few steps away from the Inca Rail meeting point for our Machu Picchu journey.

Quick tip: when you land in Cusco, you’ll likely be bombarded by taxi drivers at the airport. They’ll say their fare is “cheap,” but make sure to confirm the price before getting into the car. I got caught off guard and ended up paying $25 USD for a 15-minute ride to the hotel—way overpriced! I suggest using Uber or Cabify for a more reliable and transparent fare.

Our day in Cusco was laid-back, mainly spent wandering around the historic center. With a few hours to spare, I decided to visit Saqsaywaman, an impressive Incan fortress located on the hills above Cusco. The site, built during the reign of Pachacuti in the 15th century, is famous for its massive stone walls. Some of the stones weigh over 200 tons, yet they fit together seamlessly without mortar. The engineering skills of the Incas were truly remarkable.

The entrance to Saqsaywaman is covered by the Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turístico), which costs around 130 soles (about $35 USD) for the full ticket. However, if you’re short on time like we were, you can opt for the partial ticket at 70 soles (around $18 USD), which includes access to Saqsaywaman and other nearby sites. A useful tip—there’s no cell service up at Saqsaywaman, so plan your transportation ahead of time. We arranged for our Uber driver to pick us up two hours later to avoid overpaying for a taxi back to the city center.

After exploring Saqsaywaman and the historic center of Cusco, we called it an early night to prepare for the next day’s journey to Machu Picchu.

There are several ways to reach Machu Picchu, but I chose Inca Rail. I had booked with them in 2019 for a May 2020 trip, but due to the pandemic, the trip was postponed. They didn’t offer refunds, but honored my booking for this visit. Our trip began with a 2-hour shuttle from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, a small town in the Sacred Valley. The shuttle was cramped with very little legroom, but manageable. Upon arrival, we had a short wait before boarding the train.

The train ride to Machu Picchu took about 2.5 hours, and though legroom was also limited, the stunning scenery made up for it. We passed mountains, valleys, and rivers along the way. There was even a brief performance on the train, all in Spanish. After disembarking, we navigated through a small market to catch the bus that would take us to the top of Machu Picchu. The bus ride was scenic yet nerve-wracking as it zigzags up a narrow road with steep drop-offs and no guard rails.

At the top, we met our guide, who I hired through Inca Rail. While having a guide isn’t mandatory, I found it to be helpful. The total cost of our package was $177 USD per person, which included the shuttle, train, bus to the top, the guide, and entrance to Machu Picchu. Since we couldn’t drop off our luggage at the hotel beforehand, we had to carry it with us. Luckily, there’s a luggage storage service at the entrance for about $5 USD.

The tour of Machu Picchu took about two hours, starting with breathtaking views from above the ruins. Then, we walked through the ancient site, marveling at the incredible Incan architecture. A major tip—bring insect repellent or wear long sleeves and pants. There are thousands of mosquitoes up there, and they are relentless!

After the tour, we took the bus back down to Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo) and enjoyed lunch at a restaurant our guide recommended. A fun bonus—this restaurant offered a Machu Picchu stamp for our passports. We stayed the night at Susanna Inn, located near the train station. While convenient, the room I stayed in was far from ideal—tiny, no windows, thin walls, and noisy. I wouldn’t recommend it.

The next day, we’re heading back to Cusco for a flight to Bogota before returning to the U.S. Taking this route saved us a significant amount of money compared to flying directly out of Lima.

Cheers to fulfilling a childhood dream!